Nonrun knitted fabric and method of making the same



Dec. 31, 1935. H. v. w. SCOTT 2,026,192

NONRUN KNITTED FABRI C AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Sept. 24, 1932 6 Sheets-Sheet I l 0 si lm 0 ll WHHHIHM San-Zl- INVEN TOR.

BY ATTORNEYS. Q

Dec. 31, 1935 H. v. w. scjo'rT 2,026,192

NONRUN KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKINQ- THE SAME Filed Sept. 24', .1952 e Sheets-sheaf 2 I y i l;

BY mm 65% 4 ATTORNEYS.

7 Dec. 31,-1935. H, w SCOTT 2,026,192

NONRUN KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Sept. 24, 1932 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 ATTORNEYS,

Dec. 31, 1935. v, w sco-r'r 2,026,192

NONRUN KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Sept. 24, 1932 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 Q ID ii-innit wZZ [ INVENTOR. BY w A TTORNEYS.

Dec. 31, 1935. H. v. w. sco'r'r I 2,026,192

NONRUN KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Sept. 24, 1932 s Sheets-Sheei 5 JZ U. 1). 6%

X IN V EN TOR ATTORNEYS.

Dec. 31, 1935. v, w sgo -r 2,026,192

NONRUN KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Sept. 24,- 1932 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 r@ Y T i A TTORNEYS.

o o o Y Patented Dec. 31, 1935 UNITED STATES NONRUN KNITTED FABRIC AND LIETHOD 01f MAKING THE SAltIE Herbert V. W. Scott, Glen Ridge, N. 1., assignor to Van Raalte Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application September 24, 1932, SeriaI No. 634,673

2 Claims.

My invention relates to a new and improved non-run knitted fabric, and to a new and improved method of making the same.

One of the objects of my invention is to produce a knit fabric of the type which is known as a filling or weft fabric in which the loops are formed from a filling yarn, said fabric being produced of loops from one yarn formed across the fabric, wale after wale, and in the same course, said loops being connected so as to eliminate or diminish running of the fabric.

Another object of my invention is to connect said loops in each wale of the fabric, by means of an interlocking thread so as to prevent running.

Another object of my invention is to produce a knit fabric which shall have the elasticity and other desirable properties of the well known weft fabric which is now used for making stockings and other articles of wearing apparel,-the loops of said fabric being interconnected in order to prevent running.

Another object of my invention is to provide an improved method of making this type of fabric, it being understood that the claims for the fabric itself are not limited to 'any particular method of making the same.

In practising my invention, I provide a simple mechanism which can be applied as an attachment to any well known machine for making a filling fabric, in order to produce the superior fabric made according to my invention. For example, the necessary parts for producing the improved fabric can be applied to that type of knitting machine which is known in the trade as the Reading machine.

Other objects of my invention will be set forth in the following specification and drawings which illustrate a preferred embodiment thereof, it being understood that the above general statement of the objects of this invention is intended to generally explain the same without limiting it in any manner.

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of the machine which is used for making the improved fabric.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the machine shown in .Fig. 1.

Figs. 3, 4 and and 6 are respectively sectional views on the lines 3-3, 4-4 and 5-5 and 6-6 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 7 is a detail view partially in section illustrating some of the parts for making the improved fabric.

Fig. 8 is a plan view of the improved fabric.

Figs. 9 and 10 are diagrammatic'views i1lus trating the operation of the control parts, said control parts being shown in different relative positions in Figs. 9 and 10. In order to more clearly illustrate the parts of these diagrammatic views, certain of the horizontal members of the machine are illustrated inthe vertical position in Figs. 9 and 10. v

Fig. 11 is a diagrammatic view showing the movement of the guide bar, in order to interlock the interlocking thread T with the loops which are formed by the ordinary filling or weft thread.

As shown in Figs. 1, 2, 9, and 10, the machine is provided with a main shaft I which is suitably actuated. This main shaft l4 has connected thereto a cam l5 having a raised cam projection I5a, a cam l6 having acut-out and a. flange Nb, and a cam II which also has a cut-out.

As shown in Figs. 9 and 10, the cam 11 has an enlarged flange at one end thereof. Said cams l5, l6 and I! turn in unison with the shaft H which is revolved by any suitable mechanism. As shown in Fig. 3, the cam projection Ilia of the cam l5 cooperates with a roller I 8 which is connected to a horizontal arm I! which is pivotally connected at 20 to the frame F of the machine.

The reference letter F generally designates the stationary frame of the machine, including the arms thereof, certain plates of the frame being designated by the reference character Fp.

As shown in Figs. 2 and 3, a vertical spring 2| forces the roller l8 against the periphery of the cam l5.

Referring to Fig. 3, when the cam projection |5a raises the roller l8, the roller l8 and the lever l9 are turned to the dotted line position which is-shown in Fig. 3.

In. order to more clearLv illustrate the action of the machine, the lever I9 is shown in the vertical position, inFigs. 9 and 10, but this is only diagrammatic, and the lever l9 occupies a substantially horizontal position.

As shown in Figs. 1 and 3, a depending arm 23 is loosely connected to an extension 22 of the lever l9 so that the bar 23 is vertically reciprocated when the lever l9 and its extension 22 are oscillated. The extension 22 may be integral with the lever l9, or be suitably connected thereto.

As shown in Fig. 1, the lower end of the bar 23 is provided with a hook-shaped end 23a, which cooperates with a ratchet wheel 24, which is mounted upon the shaft 25. The shaft 25 is therefore intermittently turned in the clockwise direction.

so as to turn in unison therewith.

As shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the pattern chain P passes around said sprockets 26,. and around sprockets 28, said sprockets 28 being mounted upon a shaft 29. A yoke 30 is connected to the shaft 29, and this yoke can be pulled by means of a hook 32 which engages an eye which is provided upon said yoke 30. The threaded shank of the hook 3| passes through a suitable opening in the frame F, and said hook 3| may be adjusted by means of a nut 33 so as to pull the shaft 29, in order to maintain the pattern chain P taut. The pattern chain P is provided with tapered pattern buttons 21 and these pattern buttons 21 operate to intermittently turn the bell-crank lever 34, which is pivotally connected at 35 to the frame plate Fp. The vertical arm of the bell-crank lever 34 is connected to a spring 34a, and said spring 34a is suitably connected to the frame of the machine so that said bell-crank lever is normally maintained in the full line position shown in Fig. 1.

A horizontal arm 38 is pivotally connected to the lever 34.

As shown in Figs. 1 and 2, said arm 36 is pivotally connected by means of the vertical pivot member 31, to the horizontal lever 38 which is pivotally connected at 39 to. the frame of the machine. The lever 38 terminates in a fork 38a and this fork 38a embraces the roller lSa.

As shown in Fig. 2, the roller Isa is mounted upon a shaft 40 which is slidable in a bearing 4 l and this bearing 4| is connected with the horizontal arm 82. Said horizontal arm 42 is tumably mounted on a shaft d3 which-is suitably connected to the frame F. The horizontal arm or lever 42 is provided with a spring M, which keeps the roller lfia in contact with the cam It or with the flange lGb thereof. When the fork 38a operates to shift the'roller Na from the position shown in Fig. 9 to the position shown in Fig. 10, the cam l6 operates to intermittently turn the lever 62, so that the lever 42 is caused to oscillate by means of said cam is and the spring M.

' Fig. 4 shows the lever 42 in its lower position (represented in full lines) and also in its upper position (represented in dotted lines).

As shown in Figs. 4 and 6, the lever 49 is provided with a perforated enlargement, and a bearing block 41 is secured within said enlargement, by means of set-screws 48. A shaft 48 is mounted in this block 47 and said shaft 49 also passes through an arm 50 which is pivotally connected at to an adjustable bearing member 52 which is connected to the frame of the machine. Hence, when the lever 32 is turned up and down, the arm 50 turns in unison therewith, as shown in Fig. 4.

As shown in Figs. 1 and 6, a block 53 is connected to the shaft 59 and this block 53 is provided with an extension to which the .vertical arm 55 is connected. The up and down turning movement of the lever 52 causes a corresponding to and fro rocking movement of the shaft 69, so that the vertical arm 45 is vertically reciprocated.

. The vertical member d5 is turnably connected to a vertical slidable arm 9a, which passes through aguide sleeve i2, which is suitably connected to the frame of the machine. The upper end of the vertically slidable arm 9a is provided w h a cam 9 having an inclined face It which abuts the adjustable button II of the guide bar 4. Said guide bar 4 is slidably mounted in a suitable bearing which is provided in the frame and a compression spring I abuts a collar 8 which is provided upon the guide bar 4, so that the 5 adjustable button II is held in contact with the inclined face ID of the cam 9.

Hence, the action of the pattern chain is to reciprocate the guide bar 4, in a direction parallel to its own axis, by means of the intermediate parts which have been described.

Referring to Figs. 2,9, and 10, the cam I1 is provided with a recess which cooperates with a roller 54 whose shaft is mounted in a suitable bearing in the horizontal lever 55.

As shownvin Fig. 2, the horizontal lever 55 is pivotally connected at 58 to the frame of the machine. A horizontal arm 5'! is pivotally connected to the lever 55, and this arm 51 is pivotally connected to a vertical arm 58 which is pivotally connected at 59 to an arm of the collar 60.

The member 4 passes through the collar 60,

a suitable key and slot connection being provided, so that the guide rod 4 and the collar 80 turn in unison, while the guide rod 4 is slidable with respect to the collar 68. The action of the cam l'l and of the spring 55a is to therefore turn the guide rod i to and fro about its axis.

As shown in Figs. 1 and 7, eye-needles 2 are suitably clamped to the eye-needle bar 3, by means of screws 6. The eye-needle bar 3 has the shaft t passing through the same, a suitable connection being provided by means of clamping screws 5. Hence, the eye-needles move in unison with the guide bar 6, so that said eye-needles 2 are reciprocated in a direction parallel to the axis of the guide bar t, and said eyeneedl es 2 are also turned back and forth around said axis. The movement of the eye-needles 2 is diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 11, with relation to the ordinary knitting needles N which knit the loops of the weft fabric in the ordinary manner, in cooperation with the sinkers S and the knocking-over bits K. Said needles N may be of any suitable type and they are clamped in the usual manner to the two-piece needle bar I.

As shown in Fig. 1, the eye needles move back and forth along a U-shaped path, so that each said eye-needle is alternately to the left and to the right of the associated knitting needle N.

In Fig. 11 this U-shaped path is designated by means of parallel lines, in order to more clearly illustrate the same, but in practice said eyeneedles move back and forth along the same U- shaped line.

The bar 23 is provided with a spring 23b in order to keep its hook end 230 in contact with the teeth of the ratchet 2d. The turning movement of the bell-crank lever 2 2i is limited by the 60 adjustable stop 85b.

The operation of the machine is illustrated in Fig. 8. In Fig. 8 the ordinary or weft thread which is used for knitting the loops of the weft or filling fabric is designated by the reference letter K and said reference letter is applied in Fig. 8, in order to illustrate how the same thread or yarn forms a series of loopsacross the fabric, wale after wale, and in the same course.

Fig. 8 also illustrates how the warp or binding or warp thread T which is supplied to an eyeneedle 2 passes through the corresponding wale, so as to interlock the loops of said Wale.

Fig. 8 shows nine horizontal courses, the thread of the top and bottom courses being incompletely represented. By following the reference letters T as they are applied to the third wale from the left of Fig. 8, it can be seen that the binding or warp thread T first passes through the needle loops of the second and third courses, then upwardly and through a pair of sinker loops of the top course, then downwardly through the needle loops of the third and fourth courses, then upwardly and through a pair of sinker loops of the third course and so on. Each hinder or warp thread therefore connects each needle loop with the sinker loops of the adiacent vertical rows or wales. The binder or warp thread also connects' each needle loop with the other needle loops of the same vertical row or wale. The needle loops of each wale are therefore connected to eachother and to the sinker loops of the adjacent wales. Hence, if the weft yam is broken, the strain upon the fabric is fully taken up by the thread T so that a rim is either prevented or hindered.

As shown in Fig. 8, each row of needle loops is associated with a single thread T and said thread T passes around the sinker loops which are adjacent to said row of needle loops.

Referring to Figs. 4 and 6, the block 53 may have a drive fit on shaft 4!, or be suitably connected thereto, so that block 53 and shaft 49 turn in unison. Likewise, lever 50 is suitably connected to shaft 49, so that they turn in unison. The vertical movement of arm 42 is slight, and the lever 5|! may be loosely mounted on its pivot 5|, so that levers 42 and 50 can move to the dotted line position shown in Fig. 4 without binding.

When the roller 54 is in the groove of dam l1, the guide bar 4 is turned inwardly, to the position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 7.

The cut-out of cam l 6 makes it possible toshift the roller l6a off the hub lib and into operative position. When the roller l6 contacts with the unrecessed periphery of cam It, the member 9 is raised, so that the guide bar 4 is moved to the left of the position shown in Fig. 9. The cut-outs or recesses in cams I 6 and II are suitably arranged so that the guide bar is moved in the manner indicated in Fig. 11. If the eye-needles 2 are in the full-lineposition shown in Fig. '7, the binding or warp threads T are not crossed by the weft-thread, and said binding or warp threads are therefore not engaged by the needle loops which are formed by the weft thread. When the eye-needles 2 are in the'dotted line position shown in Fig. 'l, the binding or warp threads are crossed by the weft thread, which is laid perpendicularly across the needles N, in the usual manner. Hence, when a row of needleloops has been formed and knocked-oi! the needles N, it is necessary for the bar 4 to turn to the full-line position shown in Fig. '1, to then longitudinally shift the bar 4 until it is at the other side of its associated needle N, and to then turn the bar 4 inwardly so that the eye-needles 2 are again in the dotted-line position shown in Fig. 7, before laying the weft thread again across the needles N and forming the needle loops. Hence, the bar 4 is turned in one direction, then longitudinally shifted, and then turned in the opposite direction, before laying the weft-thread to form a new series of needle-loops. However, this can be varied by suitably locating or spacing the buttons 21. The speed of revolution of shaft I4 is properly adjusted with respect to the movement of the parts which lay the thread and form the loops. The binding or warp threads T are cases causing breakage and pin holes.

preferably of the same weight and color as the weft thread, so that said binding or warp threads fully cooperate with the loops in taking up strains on the fabric. Said threads T are maintained under suitable tension as they pass through the 5 eye-needles. If desired, the binder or warp threads T could be of contrasting color or colors.

While I have shown each binder or warp thread which is associated with a row of needle-loops, as passing through each and every one of the loops 10 of said row, the invention is not to be limited thereto.

For convenience I have designated the loops shown in Fig.8 as needle-loops", and as sinkerloops, and I have used this designation in the 15 claims. However, the invention is not necessarily limited to a knitted fabric which is formed with the use of sinkers. It will be noted that the improved fabric has loops which are longitudinally reinforced by means of binding or warp threads, 20 and it also has rows of loops which are free from said longitudinal reinforcement, because the binder or warp threads are merely looped through the sinker loops. This gives the desired combination of strength and elasticity. 25

It will be noted that the warp or binder threads T do not pass completely around the knitting needles. Such complete looping of the warp threads around the needles puts a twist in the warp threads, so that the adjacent warp threads may become intertwisted or snarled, thus in some y forming a. loop on one side of each knitting needle for one course, and on the other side of said knitting needle for the next course, the twisting of the warp threads is prevented. The binder or warp threads T could be made of silk, wool, rayon, cotton, etc., so that they can be made of material which is different from the material which is used for knitting the needle-loops and sinker- 40 loops. These warp threads pass behind the knitting needles to corresponding sides thereof, and then in back of said knitting needles to the other corresponding sides thereof. A balanced stitch is therefore secured so that the improved fabric 45 stretches evenly. The warp threads in effect are formed with half-loops when they pass laterally through the main loops of the fabric. Likewise, the weight and tensile strength of the binder thread need not exceed that of corresponding 0 thread portions of the loops formed by the thread X. Hence, the longitudinal and lateral stretch of the threads T and X may be substantially the same, so that the fabric stretches in a uniform and balancedmanner. It will be noted that each 55 portion of the thread X corresponds to a portion of the thread T, because the formation of the thread T corresponds to the general formation of the loops produced by the thread X.

I have shown a preferred embodiment of my 60 invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions can be made without departing from its spirit.

I claim:

1. A; non-rim or highly run-resistant, plain, 65 flat knitted fabric adapted for hosiery use and having the same lateral-elasticity as so-called weft fabric hosiery, said fabric being composed only of a so-called weft thread knitted back and forth course after course throughout the fabric 70 and of a series of warp threads, one for substantially each needle wale throughout the fabric, and confined thereto throughout the fabric, said warp threads being substantially of the same weight and color as the weft thread, the stretch 75 capacity ofthe weft thread and of the warp threads being substantially uniform, each said warp thread being reversed upon itself at opposite sides of next adjacent loops all in its own wale consistently throughout such wale, whereby a balanced stitch is secured at each weft stitch of the fabric, so that the entire fabric stretches evenly, the sinker wales of the fabric being devoid of warp threads, the fabric being stretchable in a uniform and balanced manner throughout.

2. That method of knitting a non-run or highly run-resistant, plain, flat knitted fabric adapted for hosiery use and having the same lateral elasticity as so-called weft fabric hosiery and which non-run fabric is composed only of a weft thread and a separate warp thread in and respectively confined to each needle wale, which comprises knitting a so-called weft thread back and forth course after course throughout the fabric, and

substantially simultaneously therewith laying and knitting a separate warp thread in each needle wale, which warp threads are of substantially the same weight and color as said weft thread, and while laying said warp threads, reversing each warp thread upon itself at opposite sides of the next adjacent loops all in its own needle wale consistently throughout the wale, whereby a balanced stitch is secured at each weft stitch of the fabric, so that the fabric stretches evenly, 10

and whereby the stretch capacity of the weft thread and of the warp threads is substantially uniform with each other both longitudinally and laterally of the fabric, and whereby the sinker wales of the fabric are devoid of warp threads, 15

and whereby the fabric is stretchable in a uniform and balanced manner throughout.

HERBERT V. W. SCO'I'I. 

